It’s going to be hard to describe the day. In fact, the next several days may be difficult as Amber and I are going to many sights of faith in the life of St. Francis. Today began with Amber taking a sunrise picture as we were still flying to Italy. Sadly, I slept only about two restless hours on the flight and Amber got 30 minutes of sleep if she was lucky. We arrived in Rome at 7:30 am. Thus, the day was just beginning even as our previous day still had not ended. God, please give us a little extra to help us persevere and hopefully enjoy this first day in Italy.
The day will consist of renting a car and driving to Assisi. I am a bit nervous to drive in Rome and through Italy. Amber gave me a tutorial on road signs. Hopefully that is enough. We are off. Is the speed limit in miles or kilometers? Driving out of Rome and through the countryside was easier than I expected.
On our way to Assisi, we plan on stopping at four St. Francis sites within the Rieto Valley. The first is Fonte Colombo, a truly significant place in St. Francis life and the Franciscan order. Here, Francis had his eye operation. Eye operation is a generous description. Today we would just call it torture. Near the end of his life, St. Francis was almost completely blind and his eyes were causing him great pain especially in light. The pope sent his personal doctor to treat Francis. The operation? They planned to cauterize his temples with a hot iron directly out of the fire. His brothers, could not bear to be in the room. Days before, St. Francis prayed and prayed that the fire would not hurt. God answered that prayer as his brothers outside the cell did not hear Francis utter a singly cry in pain. In St. Francis’ Canticle of the Creatures, Francis wrote a new verse on Brother Fire inspired by this event. Of course, this procedure did not heal St. Francis’ eye issue. Thankfully, we live with today’s medical knowledge.
On an earlier occasion, St. Francis spent a great deal of time here at Fonte Colombo in solitude seeking to write the 3rd version to his rule that all Fransiscans would follow. Francis’ first rule was almost entirely scripture, and it was not specific enough. The second version was also not adequate so St. Francis retreats away here to write one again (with the help of Brother Leo as scribe). As the order grew immensely, there became some issues. Not everyone wanted to live as strictly to poverty as St. Francis and the early brothers. Many were hoping this 3rd rule would relax the strict observance to poverty. It did not. Brothers came to question St. Francis. He took it directly to prayer crying out to Jesus, and a voice was heard by all gathered saying, “Francis, nothing in your rule is yours, for all is mine. I wish the rule to be obeyed to the letter without gloss.” In the sanctuary built here, we got to see a copy of this rule. St. Francis and St. Clare saw voluntary poverty in the following of Christ as a freedom. In other words, they believed, it set you free to better live for God, God’s love, and God’s grace for the world. They also saw joy more possible when we are not tied up with possessions. We live in a world that is dominated by the almighty dollar. Economics sway politics, make nations strong. After the events of 9-11, President Bush declared the way for Americans to help is spend money. Our lives in a consumeristic society, is shaped by purchases, pleasure, comfort, and the security provided by retirement plans and bank accounts. St. Francis stepped out of all of this to live very simply. He lived for the day, the moment that is now. What does that mean for faithfulness and my life? Am I tied to closely with my possessions and the security that I perceive that they provide?
Next, Amber and I went to Greccio. I am excited about this stop as here at Christmas in 1223, St. Francis recreated the birth scene creating the first live nativity. On this Christmas night, he read the gospel text, preached a sermon, and was overcome with the image of Jesus as a poor, vulnerable baby. Supposedly, as he said the words, “and the Word became flesh,” he truly saw Jesus as a baby and was given the opportunity to caress his face. Each year at Christmas, Greccio is a destination sight as they recreate this scene.
The signs in Italy are not great or we are brand new tourists not knowing where to look. You choose, but Amber and I spend the first 30 minutes in Greccio at some random church believing this to be the sight. After, we discover our error, we drive 10 more minutes up the road to a beautiful chapel built on the site of this nativity re-creation. We see the “cell” in which Francis stayed. It is much smaller than the cells that we saw last week at Alcatraz. St. Francis intentionally slept in caves with rock pillows as he did not want to fall asleep in the middle of prayer. Much of the night for St. Francis was spent in prayer. A small Franciscan community lived here in the early years of the movement. You can still see their chapel, choir area, and residence. These rooms enable me to picture life here during the late 13th century.
Amber and I thought it would be wonderful to add to our collection of nativity sets by buying one here at Greccio. Sadly, the gift shop was closed. We missed it by 15 minutes. Our earlier error of visiting the wrong church cost us that nativity set. Maybe, God wanted it that way.
Third, we stopped at Santa Maria Della Foresta. I was the least excited to see this location. Here, St. Francis spent some time before the eye surgery in prayer with a local priest. As St. Francis was famous in the valley (by the way the Rieto valley is stunningly beautiful) people from all over came to see him. The local priest was not pleased. He was also the caretaker of a grape vineyard and was afraid the grapes would be trampled on by the masses of people coming to get a glimpse of this “living saint.” St. Francis, knowing his thoughts, told him not to worry. God will supply. That year, the priest doubled his harvest of grapes.
Even as I was not as excited about this site, God can surprise still today. We stumbled upon a man who lives here at the hermitage. Today, drug addicts seeking recovery live together in community at Santa Maria Della Foresta. They live Francis’ way of simplicity and detachment. In the late 1960’s a Franciscan priest invited addicts to live with him. He believed that addiction was primarily the result of fragile souls getting overwhelmed by a consumer, technology driven, always on society. Such a society, he believed wounded our souls and did not allow the soul to fully be alive. Thus, inhibiting us both as people of faith and in true living. Is he on to something? The men that live here together have no cell phone, TV, nor do they participate in therapy or counseling, just the brotherly support from one another. Even as they do not have to believe or have faith, they are required to live St. Francis’ way of life together. They can stay for as long as they want. The goal is three years. They also can leave whenever they want, but if they do leave they cannot come back to live here. They are also completely limited in contact with people from the outside world. They are only able to communicate with family. While they are here, they work the garden (grapes and more). It’s a beautiful garden. Currently, four men reside here, and their “supervisor”. Our guide takes us “behind the scenes” to another cave that St. Francis lived in while he was here. The church present in the time of Francis is still here today.
The fourth site in the Rieto Valley is Poggio Bustone. Each four of these sights border the valley as Francis always retreated to the mountains. Thus each site had beautiful views from different angles of the valley.
At this last sight, Poggio Bustone, I think Amber and I were mostly done for the day. Remember, we have barely slept. It was here that Francis discovered more intimately the assurance and love of God for him. The chapel again was beautiful, but even now I have trouble recalling what it looked like. The best part of the site was the retreat cell up the mountain, and sadly, I do mean up the mountain. Amber did not travel up with me. It was steep, and she was tired from the day. At the top of the trail resided a chapel built into a cliff over the cave/cell that Francis spent his time. Legend tells us that he prayed here for forgiveness. Before, he could fully share God’s love with others, he was still struggling to accept that love and forgiveness himself. In St. Francis’ early life, it was full of carousing and partying with his friends. Some biographer’s really play this up. Here, St. Francis wondered how he could be forgiven for all that he had done. Thus he retreated away up the mountain in seclusion to pray, pray and pray. During this prayer, in this spot, St. Francis discovered God’s immense love and forgiveness even for a sinner like him. As I sat here, I prayed the same prayer. God forgive me. I have done many things that I should not have done, and have not done some things that I should. God forgive me. I still struggle with following you and relenting to you as I am stubborn about my own will. God forgive me. Why is it so hard to let yourself be forgiven? Why is it so hard to accept God’s love? Hopefully, like St. Francis I will experience the assurance of God’s deep love and forgiveness.
After, I finished the prayer. I noticed a bell, rang it twice and assumed Amber heard (which, by the way, she did not).
This was an extremely long day with little to no sleep. I worry that I have worn Amber out. Thankfully, we are now in Assisi. Again, I was a bit worried driving. The roads are narrow, but we made it. There is a stunning view of the valley from our hotel room window! We enjoy it a moment, but sleepiness is weighing heavy. It’s time to crash in bed. Goodnight everyone.
